Snowshoes: Float, Bindings, and What Actually Matters
By Trailbound Editors · Published · Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Table of Contents
Quick Verdict
Size by total weight — you plus everything you carry — not by your height, and buy for the snow you will actually walk on: smaller and more manoeuvrable for packed trails, longer for soft powder. The bindings are what fail first, so pay for those rather than for a fancy deck. Add poles and gaiters and you can go further than you expect.
Snowshoeing has almost no learning curve, which is why it is one of the best introductions to winter travel. The gear decisions are equally simple once you know which numbers matter.
Float, not length
The point of a snowshoe is to spread your weight over more snow. That means the size you need depends on total weight — you, your pack, your layers — and on the snow. Manufacturers publish weight charts, and they are more useful than the length labels.
Longer shoes float better in soft powder and turn badly on packed trails. Shorter shoes are easier to walk in and are the better choice for the trails most people use.
Bindings are where the money goes
The deck is a shaped piece of plastic; the binding is a mechanism, and mechanisms fail. Look for a binding that holds the boot at the heel as well as the toe, that you can operate with gloves on, and that does not rely on a single strap.
A rotating binding lets the shoe trail behind your foot, which keeps the frame clear of your other leg on a narrow trail. It is worth the small extra weight.
Traction, and where you will notice it
Most snowshoes have a crampon under the ball of the foot and a set of teeth along the frame. Grip matters most on refrozen trails and on any slope, less in fresh snow — so if your local trails freeze hard, prioritise the crampon rather than the float.
What to bring
- Poles. They help with balance on uneven ground and getting up after a fall.
- Gaiters. Snow down the boot is the fastest route to cold feet.
- Water and food. Winter walking is thirsty work, and water bottles freeze if left exposed.
- A map and a headlamp. Snow hides trails and dark comes early.
Looking after them
Dry the bindings and check the webbing at the end of each season. Store snowshoes hanging rather than stacked under weight, and replace any strap that has stiffened or cracked — a binding that releases unexpectedly on a slope is the one failure worth preventing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I choose a length?
Use the manufacturer's weight chart, with your body weight plus the weight of your pack. Longer shoes float better in powder; shorter ones turn more easily on packed and icy trails. Most new walkers are better served by the smaller end.
Do I need poles?
On uneven ground they make a real difference to balance and to how tired your legs feel, and they help a lot getting up after a fall. They are cheap compared to the shoes.
What do I wear?
Waterproof boots with a warm sock, and gaiters to keep snow out of the top. Snowshoes need a boot with a defined heel and toe, not a soft winter boot that flexes in the binding.
