Winter Sports

Winter Boots: Insulation, Fit, and Traction

Winter boots standing in snow

By Trailbound Editors · Published · Photo: Wikimedia Commons

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Table of Contents
  1. Fit first
  2. Match insulation to activity
  3. Traction
  4. Keeping them working

Quick Verdict

Buy winter boots half a size larger than your normal shoe so a thick sock fits without pressing, and match insulation to how active you will be — heavy insulation on a moving walk means wet feet from sweat. Traction comes from the sole compound and the lug pattern, not from the thickness of the boot.

Winter boots are the piece of kit that decides whether a cold day outside is enjoyable, and the two most common mistakes are buying them too tight and buying them too warm.

Fit first

A winter boot should be slightly larger than your normal shoe so that a thick sock fits without being compressed. Compressed insulation does not insulate; it also restricts circulation, and cold feet are usually a circulation problem before they are an insulation problem.

Try boots on with the socks you will wear, at the end of the day when your feet are at their largest, and check that your toes do not touch the front when you kick forward.

Match insulation to activity

Insulation ratings are a rough guide, not a guarantee. A heavily insulated boot worn on a moving walk traps sweat, and wet feet are cold feet. For walking, a moderately insulated waterproof boot with a warm sock is usually the better combination than the thickest boot on the shelf.

For standing around — belaying, watching, waiting — the extra insulation is worth having.

Traction

Look at the sole compound and the lug depth. Soft rubber grips ice far better than hard rubber, and deep, spaced lugs clear snow rather than packing it. For genuinely icy conditions, add a removable traction device rather than buying a boot with permanent studs, which are poor on rock and destructive indoors.

Keeping them working

Dry boots slowly at room temperature, never on a radiator, and take the insoles out so both dry properly. Re-proof the uppers when water stops beading, and check the soles for separation at the start of each winter — a sole that has begun to lift will come off at the worst moment.

If you walk regularly in deep snow, add gaiters and a spare pair of socks to the pack. Changing socks halfway through a winter walk is one of the cheapest comfort upgrades there is.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much insulation do I need?

For active winter walking, a moderate insulated boot is warmer than an extreme one because you are generating heat. Heavy expedition insulation is for standing around or for genuinely severe cold, and it makes long walks clammy.

Should winter boots be bigger than my normal size?

Slightly, to accommodate a thicker sock without compressing it. A tight boot restricts circulation, which makes feet cold regardless of how much insulation is in the walls.

Are built-in spikes worth it?

For packed snow and ice, a boot with an aggressive lug pattern plus a pair of removable traction devices covers more conditions than permanent studs, which are awkward on rock and indoor floors.

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